The nature of the stock, the location, and the method of holding all have an effect on the degree of trampling and soil disturbance that takes place. Some horses are more prone to pawing. The following measures are recommended to reduce environmental damage when using stock in the backcountry. Wet, marshy areas are very susceptible to damage and should be avoided. Tying stock in the immediate camp area is discouraged. The pawing and trampling that may occur creates an overused appearance and dusty conditions in the camp area. Lake shores and stream banks are especially subject to trampling. Over-grazing and caving in of banks may occur if stock is confined close by. All land management agencies require stock to be contained a minimum of 200 feet away from lake shores and stream banks.
A hitch rack, high line, or electric fence are the recommended methods of confining stock. Hitch racks should be placed where the soil is hard and rocky. Hitch racks and high lines should be back in the trees where the impact will be less noticeable and less damaging to the ground cover. Horses should be tied so their heads can't reach the ground. This will help prevent getting a foot over the rope. When feeding, the lead rope may be loosened so the bottom of the nosebag can rest on the ground. Remember to shorten the lead rope after feeding. Never use a nosebag on a loose horse. If it gets to water it may fill the nosebag with water and drown.
A preferred method of tying horses is with the use of a high line. This is a line stretched (approximately seven feet above the ground) between two trees using a tree saver strap on each tree. Lead ropes are tied along the high line so that the halter snap is two feet from the ground. This allows the horse to lie down yet not get tangled. A rule of thumb is tie horses shorter when you will not be nearby or be able to see them such as at night. Horses seem more relaxed and content when bed to a high line than with other methods. They seldom pull against the line because there is nothing solid to pull against.
Where the high line goes around the tree, the bark should be protected by padding, such as a cinch or gunny sack. A 2" wide nylon "tree saver" strap is a good choice. Never use your lash cinch to fasten one end of a tether line; most lash hooks can break easily as well as the canvas portion. In addition, the lash cinch can absorb tree pitch which could make your pack animal very uncomfortable.
The high line prevents the horse from getting around the tree, damaging the bark or root system. As with other methods of restraining horses, the high line should be set up away from the immediate camp area away from the trail and back in the trees where the least ground cover will be disturbed.
The lead rope may be tied directly to the high line as shown in Figure (A), or a loop knot, Figure (B), can be tied at intervals along the high line. A 2" ring or swivel snap can be placed on the end before the loop knot is tied. This is handy because the loop knot has a tendency to tighten on the lead rope making it difficult to untie.
The loop knot can always be loosened and moved to suit any spacing or situation. If the lead rope is tied directly to the high line as shown in Figure (A); a half hitch thrown over the loop will keep it from working loose.
There are three things to be cautious about when using the high line:
Half inch hemp rope makes a good high line. Nylon is too stretchy. Multi-filament poly plus rope is best. It will stretch more than hemp, but is stronger, lighter, and will not soak up water. Many horsemen use the lash ropes from their pack saddles for the high line.
A hitch rail can be easily constructed by tying a solid pole between two good-sized trees if a deadfall pole can be found. The horses should be tied on the opposite side of the tree from the pole so that the strain is against the trees rather than the rope-ties. The hitch rail should be trimmed closely (This is generally not recommended in wilderness areas.)
The tying area must be located off the trail and away from water or boggy areas. An area with hard rocky ground that catches enough breeze to discourage insects is ideal. Some horses will become restless and paw while tied. A pair of hobbles will discourage this bad habit.
Another method of holding horses, which may be particularly useful, where feed must be packed in is a temporary corral. A corral allows the horses some movement while still keeping them contained. Select a spot for your corral away from trails or water and if possible on hard rocky ground. Temporary corrals should be made as large as practical. The size will depend on tree spacing, but a 30' diameter corral would be about right for five horses. Corrals can be made of rope and usually should be made from two ropes. The top rope should be at least belt high and the bottom 18" lower. Mantie and cargo ropes can be used to build a corral. If down timber is available, a good corral can be made by tying poles to trees. Leave the branches on all but the inside and make sure there are no short limbs to injure a horse. Don't corral strange horses together. Corrals should be taken down when you leave. Rope corrals are ten times heavier than electric fencing and are not recommended due to the weight and bulk.
Portable electric corrals are good for stock familiar with electric fences. They are lightweight, efficient and can be moved to facilitate rotation. Electric fences may not be suitable to confine stock at night in bear country.
A ration of grain, evening and morning, will help teach a horse that
camp is "home". Carry extra grain or pelletized feed in areas where
graze is sparse. The effort to stop the spread of noxious weeds into
the backcountry has caused the prohibition on packing uncertified hay or
unprocessed grain into some wildernesses and other areas. Processed
grain, pelletized or certified weed seed free hay are excellent substitutes.
Processed grain has been rolled, ground or otherwise treated so that it
will not germinate. Alfalfa pellets are a good substitute for hay
but you must accustom your stock to eating pellets before the trip.
Alfalfa cubes that are not heat treated during processing are unacceptable
since any weed seeds in them are still viable. Contact the local
land manager to determine any feed restrictions.
